Zambia & Botswana

From Malawi we headed to Zambia and a bit more animal spotting at South Luangwa National Park.  We stayed at a lovely campsite on the bank of the river, where we could see hippos and elephants amongst other animals.

Monkeys in the camp at South Luangwa

Walking safari in South Luangwa

A couple of drive days took us to Livingstone and the mighty Victoria Falls.  The campsite was very nice, it had not one but two swimming pools!  One overlooking the Zambezi River, the other in the gardens.  Unfortunately, Zambia is having severe electricity shortages at the moment and power is not supplied for 8 hours every other day.  Which means most places run their electricity from their own generators every other day.  So the nice peaceful campsite sounded more like the runway at Heathrow every other day.

It is dry season at the moment, so the water levels on the Zambia side was pretty low.  But that did mean that people could go to Devils Pool – a natural rock pool on the top of the falls where you can swim right to the very edge of the falls and look over.  The rocks form a natural barrier to stop people going over the edge.  But the rocks don’t stop cameras from going over the edge….

The water was more impressive from the Zimbabwe side of the falls, so many people took a trip to Zimbabwe.  Not only to see the falls, but to enjoy a typical overlanding activity – high tea at a fancy hotel!

Overlanding has gone posh

Bruce & Lee having high tea

There was lots going on at Victoria Falls, helicopters over the falls, walks, Devils Pool, white water rafting, microlight flights.  But we still managed to find time for some pool action and water fights.  The water pistols we bought were a great investment – hours of fun!

Lenny & Ciara

Lee & Bruce enjoying an iced coffee

Still a way to go!

After three days of enjoying all that Livingstone and Victoria Falls had to offer, we headed to Botswana.  We spent a couple of nights at a campsite on the river, a very beautiful and serene spot – until 3am when the hippos started chatting amongst themselves.  We took a boat safari along the river, spotting lots more wildlife along the way.

Boat safari in Chobe

Tony & Ciara relaxing on the river safari

Hippo

We then spent a couple of nights at Elephant Sands – a camp & lodge in the plains of Botswana.  They have a water hole for the elephants, and as there is such a water shortage across the region at the moment, there were constantly elephants walking around the camp looking for the water.  Luckily they also had a TV there, so we were able to watch the World Cup final.  A little difficult at times to hear the commentary over the noise of the elephants… But well done New Zealand! 

An elephant came into the bar for a drink

We also celebrated Halloween at Elephant Sands.  Pumpkins and fancy dress outfits are a bit difficult to find out here, so we improvised.  Pumpkin carving became, pumpkin, melon, squash or apple carving.  And we all made masks using paper plates.  Wilma’s zebra was by far the most creative.

Halloween pumpkin, melon, squash and apple carving

Wilma and her paper plate zebra mask

Lee & Tony having a swimming race... minus the water in the pool

Killian keeping cool in the heat of Botswana

The gang at Elephant Sands

Tony & Killian hiding so the elephants don't see them

We left Elephant Sands to head to Maun, where we had one nights before heading into the Okavango Delta.  We took traditional Mokoro boats in, and then set up a bush camp in the middle of the delta.  Many people also took a helicopter flight over the delta to appreciate the scale of this beautiful area.

After this, it was time for us to leave Botswana, heading to one final overnight stop in Nata before crossing the border into Zimbabwe. 

Jacq admiring the many types of flora in the delta

Killian in the helicopter above the delta

Mikkel & Geoff being poled through the delta

Sissy & David

Steve & Andrew looking comfortable in their mokoro on the delta

Malawi

And into Malawi we go.  Unfortunately due to changes in visa rules, it was not a quick process.  But eventually we all got visas and headed to our first stop on Lake Malawi, Chitimba.  A beautiful campsite on the lake.  Although it doesn’t look or feel like a lake, more like a beautiful beach with a freshwater sea.

Lee & Tony with the Egg Man

Then to our next stop, Kande beach.  It is supposed to be a beautiful, relaxed beach area.  However, on the day we arrived it was Mother’s Day.  Which in Malawi is one of the biggest celebration days in the year.  We could see the cultural differences in how Mother’s Day is celebrated straight away.  Rather than buying a bunch of flowers and taking your mum to a nice restaurant for lunch, Malawians descend on the beach en masse and get very drunk.  I think the West could learn a few things from the Malawi culture! 

Mother's Day, Malawi style

On the way to Kande I had promised everyone that I would source a pig so that we could do a spit roast.  I had tried calling my contact to arrange for a pig to be ready for viewing on arrival, but his phone was always switched off.  I was beginning to get a bit worried that I had made promises that I couldn’t keep…. We stopped at a local wood carving market a few kilometres from Kande and a guy approached me and said “Hello Em”.  I was racking my brains trying to work out where I might know this guy from.  Then he explained that he was the man I had been trying to call.  He had had a problem with his phone, but somehow word had got around that I was looking for a live pig, so he arranged for his brother to sort it out for us.  Problem solved!

Andrew and dinner

Our BBQ pig

As well as having a spit roast pig the following day we also had a Punch Off.  Where Team Em & Ciara, Team Wilma and Team Andrew each made a punch and went head to head to see who would win the best punch award.  It was judged that Andrew made the best punch, Team Wilma had the best presentation, and Team Em & Ciara had comedy value.

Andrew and his winning punch

The winning punch

Em & Ciara sampling the competition's punch

Roberta, or is it a fruity Princess Leah?

The group having a serious game of Fussball...  in the dark...

And then to our last stop in Malawi, Senga Bay.  Once again on the shore of Lake Malawi.  We arrived just in time for our Irish contingent to watch the rugby match.  Sadly, Ireland did not perform as well as hoped that day and they were knocked out of the tournament.  We also watched the Scotland Australia match that evening, where Scotland played the match of their lives.  Sadly, they too were knocked out of the tournament because of a very questionable decision by the ref – They were robbed!!  But I suspect Kirsten will delete this section of the blog, as being Australian she does not agree! ;-) (editor's note - in the spirit of free speech I have allowed this to remain, however I have only one thing to add - C'mon the Wallabies!!)

And for those following the exploits of Rolandia the Rat, we can report that he met his demise in Malawi.

Team Rat Catchers in Tanzania (unsuccessful)

Em & Steve, the Rat Catchers, in Malawi (successful)

Tanzania

On our last night in Kenya we decided to go to Carnivores, a very famous meat restaurant in Nairobi.  However, when we discovered that the cost before drinks would be $50 a head, we thought we could do a better meat feast ourselves.  And so Calypso Carnivores was born.  Everyone mucked in, so we had a delicious barbeque to celebrate our final day in beautiful Kenya.

Calypso Carnivores!

The boys preparing camp

Sissy & Leanne getting ready for Calypso Carnivores

Ciara at the BBQ

A little pre-BBQ starter

Meat Feast!

Leanne & Tony having a utensil duel with Steve refereeing.  At least that's probably what's happening here?

The following day we hit the road again, into country number 7, Tanzania.  We stayed for one night in Arusha before leaving Calypso behind and getting into 4x4’s to go into The Serengeti and Ngorongoro crater.    Within minutes of entering the Serengeti National Park we spotted 3 male lions.  Five minutes later we saw lionesses and a couple of cubs.  In all we saw the big five in the first couple of hours – very lucky indeed!  The first night we camped in an open camp in the Serengeti.  During the night we heard a Zebra foal being chased through the camp by hyenas – only a metre or two away from our tents.  Most people were awake and looking at the night time entertainment throughout the night.  Later on, a hyena was spotted in camp, looking into Leanne and Ciara’s tent!  That night was described as the best worst night’s sleep ever!

Secretary Bird

A lion!

A Zebra crossing!

Camping in the Serengeti

Cheetah crossing

Ciara, Sissy, Tony, Leanne, David and Roberta enjoying the safari

Lee with his animal spotting chart - for ages 3 and above

Lunchtime for a cheetah

On safari

Safari selfie

Steve enjoying the game drive

Serengeti

After another successful day of game driving our second camp was in the Ngorongoro crater.  We had been promised that showers would be available.  Unfortunately, whilst some of the group were using the showers, a rather large elephant walked into camp, stuck its trunk into the water tank and drank all of the water!  Showers became somewhat limited after that, but no-one really minded as seeing such a large elephant in the middle of our camp was pretty cool. 

A hippo!

An elephant!

Lee & Tony showing the way to the bathroom

Tony & Ann looking out into the crater

Tony & Lee trying to prove the evolution of mankind

Wildebeest crossing

We headed towards Dar Es Salaam, before catching the ferry across to Zanzibar for four nights of well deserved rest and relaxation.  Everyone went their separate ways for a few days to enjoy the stunning beaches, explore Stone Town and its famous architecture and fish market – and have a few days of not being on the move.

Lee

Stone Town from the sea

Stone Town night market

Tour leading is a tough job sometimes...

Zanzibar beach

After a few days away from the truck we were all refreshed and ready to go again.. and so headed towards Malawi.