Wednesday 30 September 2015

Kenya, Uganda & Rwanda

Even at the border coming into Kenya we could immediately see a difference.  After the poor roads, power cuts and hardships of Ethiopia, Kenya seemed very efficient.  Electricity, computers that work, tarmac…

We are in the Southern Hemisphere!
Kenyan morning
Kenya - which way should we go?
Kenyan lizard
And Tusker.  Together.  Forever.  When you open a bottle of Tusker you are joining the world in celebrating one of Africa’s great original beers.  Tusker has been brewed with care craft and love since 1922.  Every crisp clean mouthful summons up the taste sunshine and love of life of its African roots….

A quick overnight stop in Marsabit, then continued driving to Archer’s Post, our home for a couple of days and the place to do our first safari.  Samburu National Park in known for its Gerenuk’s, giraffe’s and other hoofed animals.  After bumping around we had seen many different animals, then were lucky enough to spot a number of lions having a spot of lunch.

Our first game drive
Safari Bruce with an elephant outside the truck
Everyone looked after Tony really well when he was feeling a bit rough
Lesson for me - never leave your phone unattended with David & Sissy

On the way to Naro Moru the following day we discovered another sign we were in a more Western country.  A supermarket!  Not just any supermarket, but a fancy one that sold pretty much anything you could ever want.  We spent a couple of hours here stocking up on all of the things that are not available in the northern countries - wine & cheese were pretty high on the list.

Naro Moru was pretty underwhelming.  But our campsite had a pool and Wi-Fi!


Our campsite
Then to Nakuru, for more game drives, game walks and horse riding.  Also staying at our campsite was a group of real estate agents from Nairobi on a team building event.  We joined them for a few drinks after dinner, and they showed us how to dance like a Kenyan.  It’s all about the bottom apparently… The evening got a little raucous, and so to apologise for the noise, the manager of the camp upgraded us all into beautiful bandas and safari tents for our last night. 


How many lions?  Tree lions
Impala
White rhino
Horse riding
A very special wine
A long drive brought us to Jinja, the source of the Nile.  We camped at a beautiful spot overlooking Bujugali.  We spent a few days here keeping the adrenaline junkies happy with white water rafting, body boarding, zip lining, kayaking and stand up paddle boarding.  David and Sissy also celebrated their anniversary.  They had a lovely romantic dinner for two, with the rest of the group at the table next to them!




Jan & Wilma relaxing by their tents
Lennie has really got to grips with tandem kayaking
Some of the gang after white water rafting
David & Sissy's anniversary
A long drive eventually took us to Lake Bunyonyi, a beautiful spot to stay for a few days.  And most importantly Wales kicked off their rugby world cup campaign, and the lodge we stayed at had a TV.


David on a zipline
David jumps in
A couple of Wales supporters watching rugby (Tony & Em)
Then on to Rwanda so trek to the mountain gorillas.  Amazing to spend time with these animals and their very human like behaviour.  One young gorilla charged Killian and pushed him over.  Apparently not the first time he has been rejected by a hairy teenage girl…..


Lee looking excited to see his long lost brother
Sissy with a gorilla
Baby gorilla
Ciara & Lennie stick fighting
Sissy
Tony & Lee keeping themselves entertained in Ruhengeri...
... and getting friendly with the wildlife





Back to Uganda, where we celebrated Ciara’s birthday at a lovely campsite with a swimming pool.  Shame it rained all day.. Then onto Kampala, where the sun came back for a few hours so we were able to make use of their swimming pool.

For Ciara's birthday it rained...it was just like being back in Ireland.  Except for cooking in the rain...
Another tough day in Africa
Tony relaxing in the pool
Tony wearing gloves at the special request of the office (following his complaint regarding a broken fingernail...)
Little and Large do shopping

Our last stop in Kenya was Nairobi, where we went to feed baby elephants and then kiss giraffes.  Some even cuddled crocodiles – a birthday treat for Jan!

Ann up close and personal with the wildlife
For Jan's birthday she cuddled a croc
Lennie got a new friend
Killian feeding a giraffe
Wilma and a giraffe

However, not all animals are popular with the group...


Rat war plan

Thursday 17 September 2015

From Egypt to Ethiopia, via Sudan

Our last stop in Egypt was Abu Simbel.  The area between Aswan and the border with Sudan is a military area, and for the first time in Odyssey history we were able to travel the majority of the way by road.  But we could not drive on our own to Abu Simbel – we had to be in a convoy with all vehicles travelling in that direction along with our military escort.  Usually there are two convoys per day, but due to the weather (a rather warm 49 degrees), there was only one running…at 4am.  So an early start for us to get to the meeting point in time.  The General in charge of the convoy was a jolly nice chap, and whilst we were hanging around waiting for all vehicles to arrive he very kindly shouted the whole group to tea and coffee.

In Abu Simbel we visited the amazing temple that had been moved brick by brick to Abu Simbel as in its original location it was in danger of flooding after the Aswan Dam was built.  And then off for dinner in the only place that sold cold beer before heading into Sudan, a dry country!

Abu Simbel
After a short stint on a barge and another short drive, we got to the border.  Once the formalities of the border were complete we headed to Wadi Halfa to pick up supplies as we would be wild camping in the desert for a few days. 

We headed off into the desert and drove for about an hour down a very bumpy road to a spot we had in mind to camp, right by the river.  Unfortunately, this area has been taken over by lots of men mining so not quite as picturesque as we had hoped.  But back on the road for half an hour and another beautiful desert camp was found.  Although it was pretty warm still, we got a fire going so that we could make a barbeque under the fabulous African sky.

Heading south we stopped off at Jebel Barkal and wild camped nearby.  The following morning we needed to top up our water tank.  We managed to find a community centre that would let us use their tap.  But the water pressure was not good enough for a hose uphill to the truck.  So we had to manually fill it up, using jerry cans, saucepans, kettles and any other receptacle we could find.  It did take somewhat longer than usual to fill our tank, but everyone secretly enjoyed having a bit of water on them after a couple of days wild camping.

Lee & Roberta at Meroe
Filling our water tank
Roberta filling water for our water tank
Then our journey south through the deserts of Sudan continued.  It was 50 degrees every day and not a drop of rain in sight.  Yet on our way into Khartoum we were held up due to flash floods…   But we got through in the end to stay in a lovely campsite in the centre of Khartoum on the bank of the River Nile.

As we headed south the landscape changed from endless deserts into agricultural land.  On our final night, we camped in a field with goats and camels.  And our cook group got dressed up for dinner…

Wilma, Claire, Malcolm & Killian dressed up especially for dinner
Lee caught licking the spoon from our banoffee pie
Once we crossed the border into Ethiopia we were suddenly in lush, green mountains.

After a day of seeing castles in Gondar (which made a nice change from pyramids!) we headed up into the Simien mountains to try and spot some Gelada Barboons and do some hiking.  We quickly discovered why the whole area is so beautiful and green.  It rains.  A lot. Some of the group packed their bags and went off on an “epic” 3 day hike deep into the national park.  Whilst everyone else did day hikes to various waterfalls and beautiful places, followed by beer and curry night in the rain.

Gondar Royal Enclosure
Ciara, Killian, Leanne & Sissy having lunch in the Simiens
Jacq, Em & Tony creating a curry in the Simiens
Jan & Steve having lunch in the Simiens
Alison & an armed guard
Leanne & a barboon.  Leanne is on the left.
Mikkel found a snake in the Simiens
Nothing would stop our Saturday night beer and curry night
Our beautiful, but slightly damp, campsite in the Simiens
Sissy in the Simiens
The gang trying to get good pictures of the Gelada barboons

Then we were off to Lalibela for more Ethiopian culture.  First off, the amazing rock hewn churches.  And then a couple of visits to Torpedoes, a local bar famous for its traditional Ethiopian drink – honey wine, and its traditional entertainment and dancing.  Everyone got involved in the dancing, helped along by the honey wine.

St George's Church, Lalibela


How many people can fit in a tomb?
Ciara & Alison at the hobbit house
Tony & Leanne in Lalibela
Wilma in Lalibela
Leanne, Ciara, Tony, David, Sissy & Killian in a tomb

Heading south we spent time at the Ethiopian Riviera, Bahir Dar, then on to Addis Ababa and Lake Awasa.  Where we had to create a new truck job – Wildlife Watcher – in order to protect our food from the monkeys.

Andrew with a lunch crowd
Andrew, Leanne & Tony enjoying some local food
Mannequins in Addis - spot the odd 2 out
A monkey pleasantly surprised to see Odyssey back in Africa!
Andrew, Ann, Jacq & Tony - who's interviewing who?

Up in the Omo Valley we were lucky enough to be invited to the Bull Running ceremony with the Hamer tribe.  Certainly interesting to see such a different way of life.

Bull jumping in the Omo Valley
Jacq with some new friends
Jacq, Malcolm, Steve & Ann
Leanne getting her hair done (with Wilma)


Time to head out of Ethiopia and into Kenya.  But before we could get to the border, we had to pull over and wait for an hour or so as a race was just about to start.  Then a bit of a delay at the border due to a power cut.  And they couldn’t use the generator as they had run out of petrol.  But luckily one of the group agreed to marry the border guard if they could get power within 10 minutes.  And magically the power returned.  And she can never go back to that border….

Delays getting to the border in Ethiopia due to a race