Thursday 17 September 2015

From Egypt to Ethiopia, via Sudan

Our last stop in Egypt was Abu Simbel.  The area between Aswan and the border with Sudan is a military area, and for the first time in Odyssey history we were able to travel the majority of the way by road.  But we could not drive on our own to Abu Simbel – we had to be in a convoy with all vehicles travelling in that direction along with our military escort.  Usually there are two convoys per day, but due to the weather (a rather warm 49 degrees), there was only one running…at 4am.  So an early start for us to get to the meeting point in time.  The General in charge of the convoy was a jolly nice chap, and whilst we were hanging around waiting for all vehicles to arrive he very kindly shouted the whole group to tea and coffee.

In Abu Simbel we visited the amazing temple that had been moved brick by brick to Abu Simbel as in its original location it was in danger of flooding after the Aswan Dam was built.  And then off for dinner in the only place that sold cold beer before heading into Sudan, a dry country!

Abu Simbel
After a short stint on a barge and another short drive, we got to the border.  Once the formalities of the border were complete we headed to Wadi Halfa to pick up supplies as we would be wild camping in the desert for a few days. 

We headed off into the desert and drove for about an hour down a very bumpy road to a spot we had in mind to camp, right by the river.  Unfortunately, this area has been taken over by lots of men mining so not quite as picturesque as we had hoped.  But back on the road for half an hour and another beautiful desert camp was found.  Although it was pretty warm still, we got a fire going so that we could make a barbeque under the fabulous African sky.

Heading south we stopped off at Jebel Barkal and wild camped nearby.  The following morning we needed to top up our water tank.  We managed to find a community centre that would let us use their tap.  But the water pressure was not good enough for a hose uphill to the truck.  So we had to manually fill it up, using jerry cans, saucepans, kettles and any other receptacle we could find.  It did take somewhat longer than usual to fill our tank, but everyone secretly enjoyed having a bit of water on them after a couple of days wild camping.

Lee & Roberta at Meroe
Filling our water tank
Roberta filling water for our water tank
Then our journey south through the deserts of Sudan continued.  It was 50 degrees every day and not a drop of rain in sight.  Yet on our way into Khartoum we were held up due to flash floods…   But we got through in the end to stay in a lovely campsite in the centre of Khartoum on the bank of the River Nile.

As we headed south the landscape changed from endless deserts into agricultural land.  On our final night, we camped in a field with goats and camels.  And our cook group got dressed up for dinner…

Wilma, Claire, Malcolm & Killian dressed up especially for dinner
Lee caught licking the spoon from our banoffee pie
Once we crossed the border into Ethiopia we were suddenly in lush, green mountains.

After a day of seeing castles in Gondar (which made a nice change from pyramids!) we headed up into the Simien mountains to try and spot some Gelada Barboons and do some hiking.  We quickly discovered why the whole area is so beautiful and green.  It rains.  A lot. Some of the group packed their bags and went off on an “epic” 3 day hike deep into the national park.  Whilst everyone else did day hikes to various waterfalls and beautiful places, followed by beer and curry night in the rain.

Gondar Royal Enclosure
Ciara, Killian, Leanne & Sissy having lunch in the Simiens
Jacq, Em & Tony creating a curry in the Simiens
Jan & Steve having lunch in the Simiens
Alison & an armed guard
Leanne & a barboon.  Leanne is on the left.
Mikkel found a snake in the Simiens
Nothing would stop our Saturday night beer and curry night
Our beautiful, but slightly damp, campsite in the Simiens
Sissy in the Simiens
The gang trying to get good pictures of the Gelada barboons

Then we were off to Lalibela for more Ethiopian culture.  First off, the amazing rock hewn churches.  And then a couple of visits to Torpedoes, a local bar famous for its traditional Ethiopian drink – honey wine, and its traditional entertainment and dancing.  Everyone got involved in the dancing, helped along by the honey wine.

St George's Church, Lalibela


How many people can fit in a tomb?
Ciara & Alison at the hobbit house
Tony & Leanne in Lalibela
Wilma in Lalibela
Leanne, Ciara, Tony, David, Sissy & Killian in a tomb

Heading south we spent time at the Ethiopian Riviera, Bahir Dar, then on to Addis Ababa and Lake Awasa.  Where we had to create a new truck job – Wildlife Watcher – in order to protect our food from the monkeys.

Andrew with a lunch crowd
Andrew, Leanne & Tony enjoying some local food
Mannequins in Addis - spot the odd 2 out
A monkey pleasantly surprised to see Odyssey back in Africa!
Andrew, Ann, Jacq & Tony - who's interviewing who?

Up in the Omo Valley we were lucky enough to be invited to the Bull Running ceremony with the Hamer tribe.  Certainly interesting to see such a different way of life.

Bull jumping in the Omo Valley
Jacq with some new friends
Jacq, Malcolm, Steve & Ann
Leanne getting her hair done (with Wilma)


Time to head out of Ethiopia and into Kenya.  But before we could get to the border, we had to pull over and wait for an hour or so as a race was just about to start.  Then a bit of a delay at the border due to a power cut.  And they couldn’t use the generator as they had run out of petrol.  But luckily one of the group agreed to marry the border guard if they could get power within 10 minutes.  And magically the power returned.  And she can never go back to that border….

Delays getting to the border in Ethiopia due to a race

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